Auction basics6 min read

Japanese auction grades explained (S to 1, plus R and interior grades)

A Japanese auction inspection sheet with its condition diagram laid on a dark surface.

A Japanese auction grade is the inspector’s one-number verdict on a car’s overall condition. The common scale runs from S (as-new) down to 1 (heavily modified or damaged), with a separate R family for accident-repaired cars and an A–E letter grade for the interior. For most buyers, grade 4 or 4.5 is the sweet spot.

The overall grade scale

GradeWhat it means
SBrand-new or delivery-mileage condition (often under 12 months / 10,000 km). At some auctions, a special or collector car.
6–9As-new condition with very low mileage.
5Excellent condition with only minor wear.
4.5Excellent overall with very light cosmetic wear.
4Good, average used condition — minor scratches or dents.
3.5Below average; visible wear, small repairs likely.
3Noticeable wear, dents or scratches; budget for repairs.
2A rough vehicle — heavy rust/corrosion or serious panel damage.
1Heavily modified or mechanically altered, stripped for racing, or (at some auctions) flood/fire/salt-damaged.

The R grades: accident-repaired cars

A grade in the R family means the car has been in an accident and repaired. It is not automatically a bad buy — a light, well-done repair can be perfectly sound — but it is a disclosure you should weigh and price in.

  • RA / R1 — a light or minor accident repair.
  • RB — a moderate repair, more extensive than RA.
  • RC — a more extensive repair than RB.
  • R0 / 0 — a special-note grade in the repair family (e.g. one or more replaced panels or other disclosures). Read the sheet carefully.

Interior grades (A to E)

Separately from the overall grade, the inspector grades the interior with a letter — A is the best, descending to D or E at auctions that extend the scale. So a “4.5 / B” car is excellent overall with a lightly-worn interior.

Watch for stars and special marks

A star next to a number grade (e.g. 4.5*) usually flags a mechanical fault or a body-only grade, and *** can mean a car that can’t be graded, a serious noted fault, or — next to the mileage — an unconfirmed odometer. These are exactly the marks worth asking about before you bid.

So what grade should I buy?

For a clean daily driver, grade 4 or 4.5 with interior A or B is the value sweet spot: above-average condition without paying the premium for a near-new 5 or S. The grade is only a summary, though — the auction sheet tells you where the marks actually are. When you’re ready, the AskJapanCars assistant reads any sheet and tells you the risk before you commit.

Is grade 4.5 good?

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Yes — grade 4.5 is excellent overall condition with only very light cosmetic wear and no structural repair. It’s one of the most sought-after grades for a clean used car.

Should I avoid R-grade (repaired) cars?

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Not necessarily. A light RA repair that was done well can be a sound, good-value car. What matters is the extent of the repair and the quality of the work — which the auction sheet and our risk check help you judge.

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